Blog Four – Taormina, Sicily

Published by Alastair Reid on September 25, 2019September 25, 2019

[21st – 23rd September 2019]

We knew that the day of travelling between Stromboli in the Aeolian Islands to Taormina in Sicily would likely be the most difficult, as it involved a golf cart to the port on Stromboli, a hydrofoil to Milazzo (though we shaved two hours off that bit by getting a direct ferry), a bus to Milazzo train station, a train to Messina, change trains to Taormina, and a taxi from the station to our AirBnB in the old town.

However, we did not anticipate the vagaries of Sicily’s railway system. Most stations feature tracks overgrown with botanical life, and no lifts. Passengers therefore have to lug suitcases down to subways then up the other side to platforms. Elderly ladies totter up endless flights of stairs, manhandling their suitcases, while station employess look on and offer no assistance. At Messina station, Fiona asked a station attendant, more in hope than expectation, if there was a lift. “Yes!” he replied with a smile. “Its on that platform over there”.

Red and white scaffolding barriers have been built between sets of tracks to stop passengers taking their luggage the shortest route between platforms, sometimes (I guess) with fatal consequences. As far as we could see, if you are disabled, or infirm, you can forget about travelling by train in Sicily. Trains routinely run hours late, or not at all.

The first trip into Messina went OK, apart from all the stairs. Our train from Messina was delayed, then announced over the tannoy, but not on the departure boards. We went to the platform, where we were encouraged to board a local train which took much longer to Taormina, which we did. Our proper train was then announced, so we got off and got on it. It was airy, cool and almost empty. And as far as we know, it still hasn’t moved – “No power” we were finally informed.

So down into the subway again, with a gaggle of very unhappy local folk, one of whom was a very imposing priest in full regalia. Even he seemed to be unable to summon up the assistance required to get a train to run. We eventually arrived two hours late inTaormina, with only time for a couple of beers and a sandwich before bed. Take the bus.

Taormina is a beautiful city, which has experienced Greek, Roman and Arabic occupation, presumably amongst others. The old town is very pretty and very compact, centering on the Corso Umberto I, which is good if you have limited time, like us. It has been a destination on the tourist route for centuries, featuring on the Victorian Grand Tour, amongst others.

The views of from the old town down to the sea and the port are stunning – even more so on a clear day, which we didn’t experience. In the other direction, Mount Etna looms imposingly large, with its crater usually obscured by cloud – it was a barely visible shadow when we were in a position to see it.

Our apartment was very unusual – not too many AirBnBs can feature an original Roman well, behind a glass door at ground floor level. It was openable, and small offerings, flowers, candles etc. can be placed inside. We hope that the Roman Gods were not to offended by the constant cursing, as we squeezed up the way-too-narrow spiral staircase between the house’s three floors – a single room on each, but with a great balcony onto the street at the top level.

There were plenty of things to see and do in Taormina, which our single full day didn’t allow – maybe on the next visit, when either we’ll have lost weight, or we won’t have the spiral staircase!

My dozen favourite images from our short stay in Taormina are included in the gallery below. Click on a thumbnail to see a bigger image.

Image Gallery